Why did India take over diamond cutting?

The Jewish competitive moat, trust, information, access, became less scarce as the industry globalized. Indian firms won on scale and labor cost, processing over 90% of diamonds by piece count.

What happened to De Beers and Lightbox?

De Beers closed Lightbox in 2025. Lab-grown wholesale prices had fallen approximately 90%. Anglo American has written down $6.8 billion in De Beers value.

What share of engagement rings use lab-grown diamonds?

Approximately 52% of U.S. engagement ring center stones are now lab-grown, according to The Knot's 2025 Real Weddings Study.

Jewish Diamond Trade: From Antwerp to Surat, a History

Four cities · Three generations · Hasidic trust networks · De Beers and the sight system · The Leviev disruption · India's labor revolution · 47th Street · Lab-grown collapse · 2026 trade data · What survives.

For most of the 20th century, the global diamond trade was a Jewish business. Not partially. Not disproportionately. Overwhelmingly. Jewish families, many of them Orthodox and Hasidic, concentrated in Antwerp and later in Ramat Gan and Manhattan, controlled the critical middle of the diamond pipeline: the sorting, cutting, brokering, and financing that turn a rough stone into a retail product.

The competitive moat was built on three things: trust, information, and access. Trust between traders who sealed million-dollar deals with a handshake and the Yiddish phrase mazal u'bracha. Information about stone quality, pricing, and market conditions that lived inside closed networks. And access to De Beers's sight system, the invitation-only distribution channel that controlled the flow of rough supply for most of the century.

Globalization and technology made all three advantages less scarce. India won on scale. Lab-grown diamonds broke the scarcity premise. And the families who built the trade retreated to the top of the value chain, or left the industry entirely.

The Jewish diamond trade didn't die. It was outscaled. This is the story of how.

Antwerp: The Capital That Was Built on Trust

Antwerp's position as the world's diamond center dates to the late 15th and early 16th centuries, when diamond-trading activity shifted from Bruges as Antwerp became the dominant commercial port of the Low Countries. Jewish traders, many of Sephardic origin, later joined by Ashkenazi communities, were among the merchants who established the city's gem trade, drawn by relatively tolerant local governance and Antwerp's existing commercial infrastructure.

By the early 20th century, the Jewish diamond community was concentrated in the square kilometer around Hoveniersstraat, Schupstraat, and Pelikaanstraat, adjacent to Antwerp Central Station. Four diamond bourses operated within walking distance: the Beurs voor Diamanthandel, the Diamantkring, the Vrije Diamanthandel, and the Antwerpsche Diamantkring, the last of which remains the world's only exchange dedicated exclusively to rough diamond trading.

The industry ran on social trust. Deals worth millions were sealed with a handshake. No contracts. No lawyers. No escrow. The enforcement mechanism was reputational: a dealer who defaulted was expelled from the bourse, blacklisted across the community, and effectively finished. Barak Richman, a Duke University law professor who has studied the diamond trade's governance structure, told Highsnobiety that the portability of diamonds enabled Jews to engage in their trade during cycles of exile and dispersion, and the trust system that made that portability possible was the industry's core infrastructure.

The trading families included major Orthodox and Hasidic households, families connected through Satmar, Belz, Vizhnitz, and Bobov communities. Prominent names in the Antwerp trade included the Steinmetz family, the Schachter family, and Martin Rapaport, who would later create the Rapaport Diamond Report. But the characterization of the trade as exclusively Hasidic would be an overstatement: secular Jewish traders, Sephardic families, and non-Jewish Belgian firms all participated, though the Orthodox networks held the most concentrated market power in the brokerage and rough-sorting layers.

At its peak in the 1970s and 1980s, Antwerp handled the vast majority of the world's rough diamond trade. The Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC), the industry's representative body, has historically cited figures suggesting the city handled upwards of 80% of the world's rough trade by value. The Jewish community in Antwerp numbered approximately 15,000-20,000, with a large share connected directly or indirectly to the diamond economy.

The De Beers Sight System: Access as Competitive Advantage

The diamond pipeline's structure was, for most of the 20th century, controlled by De Beers through the Central Selling Organisation (CSO), later renamed the Diamond Trading Company (DTC). De Beers held approximately 80-85% of global rough diamond supply through the 1990s, a figure cited in multiple industry analyses and antitrust filings, and distributed stones through a system of "sights": invitation-only sales held ten times per year, first in London, later also in Gaborone.

Sightholders, the 80-120 companies invited to purchase rough directly from De Beers at each cycle, were the industry's aristocracy. A significant share were Jewish-owned firms, many based in Antwerp, Israel, and New York. The sight allocation was the most valuable commercial asset in the diamond business: it guaranteed access to rough supply at managed prices. Losing sightholder status was existential. The Oppenheimer family, who built and ran De Beers for three generations, controlled the other end of every one of these allocations.

The Jewish sightholders were the intermediary layer between De Beers's mines and the world's jewelry retailers. They sorted rough into thousands of subcategories by size, color, clarity, and crystal form. They decided what to cut and how. They contracted with cutting factories, first in Antwerp and Israel, later increasingly in India. And they sold the polished output into the wholesale and retail markets. The profit margin lived in the sorting, cutting, and brokerage, the transformation layer. That is what the Jewish traders controlled.

47th Street: Manhattan's Diamond Bazaar

New York's diamond trade predates the famous 47th Street district. The city's wholesale diamond business was originally concentrated around Maiden Lane in Lower Manhattan from the late 1800s through the 1930s. The shift to West 47th Street, the single block between Fifth and Sixth Avenues, happened during World War II, when the Nazi occupation of Antwerp and Amsterdam forced thousands of European Jewish diamond dealers to flee. New York absorbed the largest share. The Diamond Dealers Club, founded in 1931 and now headquartered at 580 Fifth Avenue, formalized the community.

By the late 1980s, the district was, by one frequently cited estimate, approximately 90% Jewish, a characterization Barak Richman attributed to that era in Highsnobiety's 2023 history of the block. The district housed over 2,600 businesses as of 2020, according to Wikipedia's sourced entry on 47th Street, most of them in booths at one of 25 "exchanges" crammed into the single block. Wholesale sales reached an estimated $24.6 billion annually before the pandemic, and the industry employed approximately 33,000 people.

The district's demographics have diversified significantly since the 1980s. Indian-American traders (particularly Gujarati Jain families), Israeli dealers, and Armenian merchants have all established substantial presences. Orthodox and Hasidic Jewish dealers remain visible, the black hats and overcoats are still part of the streetscape, but they share the block with a broader trading community than at any previous point.

Ramat Gan: Israel's Diamond Exchange, From $14 Billion to $2.5 Billion

Israel's diamond industry traces to the 1930s, when Jewish diamond cutters fleeing Antwerp and Amsterdam established workshops in Mandatory Palestine. The industry grew rapidly after independence in 1948, driven by immigrant craftsmen and the new state's urgent need for export revenue.

The Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) in Ramat Gan, a complex of four interconnected towers in the Diamond Exchange District, is the world's largest dedicated diamond trading facility by floor area. It houses approximately 3,100 member companies, with over 15,000 people employed in diamond-related activities, according to the IDE and Israeli government data.

The trajectory tells the story of the trade's contraction. In 2023, net diamond exports reached roughly $2.91 billion in polished stones alone, according to industry-body data reported by Rapaport News. By 2024, total net diamond exports had fallen to approximately $2.5 billion ($1.87 billion in polished, down 35% from 2023, and $634 million in rough, down 24%), per Jewish Business News's compilation of the trade figures, driven by the combined impact of the October 7 war, global demand weakness, and the ongoing shift to Indian cutting. The IDE president, Nissim Zuaretz, told Ynet, as reported by Middle East Eye, that for the first time in the exchange's history, annual retirees outnumbered new members: "In the best years of the industry, we received 200 new members a year. In the past year, only 30."

The named Israeli operators who shaped the industry include Beny Steinmetz (the Steinmetz Diamond Group), Dan Gertler (whose diamond-for-infrastructure deals in the DRC drew U.S. Treasury OFAC sanctions in 2017), and Shmuel Schnitzer (longtime IDE president). At the retail end, Laurence Graff, London-based, Jewish, built his brand on stones that often passed through Israeli hands.

Lev Leviev: The Man Who Challenged De Beers

Lev Leviev, born 1956 in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, immigrated to Israel in 1971, is the most consequential single figure in the modern Jewish diamond trade. A Bukharan Jewish immigrant who started as a diamond cutter in Netanya, Leviev built Africa Israel Investments into one of Israel's largest conglomerates and simultaneously created what was, for a period, the most significant alternative to De Beers's control of rough supply.

In the 1990s and 2000s, Leviev secured mining concessions in Angola, Namibia, and Russia, countries where De Beers's grip was weakening as post-Cold War governments sought to diversify their buyer base. His company, LLD Diamonds, purchased rough directly from African governments, bypassing the sight system.

Leviev's philanthropy, directed heavily through Chabad-Lubavitch institutions, funded synagogues, schools, and community centers across the former Soviet Union, Africa, and Israel. The alignment between his commercial and philanthropic footprints was visible: Chabad operations appeared in cities where Leviev had mining or real estate interests.

The 2008 financial crisis devastated Leviev's overleveraged real estate portfolio. Africa Israel lost billions. The empire contracted. The period in which a single Jewish entrepreneur posed a structural challenge to De Beers's rough monopoly was effectively over by 2012.

The Indian Revolution: Why the Moat Broke

The thesis is not simply that India had cheaper labor, though it did. The thesis is that the Jewish competitive moat was built on trust, information, and access, and globalization made all three less scarce.

Trust: The handshake-and-mazal-u'bracha system worked in a closed ethnic network. Indian trading families built their own trust systems, anchored in Jain and Gujarati Patel communities with their own reputational enforcement. The Diamond Dealers Club model was replicated, not monopolized.

Information: The Rapaport price list, launched in 1978, democratized pricing data. Digital trading platforms made price discovery transparent. A dealer in Surat could access the same market data as a dealer in Antwerp.

Access: De Beers's monopoly eroded as new mines in Canada, Australia, and Russia diversified the source base, and as producing countries demanded local beneficiation.

With the moat broken, the competition came down to cost. And on cost, India won decisively.

Surat: 90% of the World's Diamonds, $16 Billion in Revenue

Surat, a city of over 7 million in Gujarat, processes over 90% of the world's rough diamonds into polished stones by piece count, a figure the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) reiterates in its trade reporting via Business Standard.

India's natural diamond polishing industry generated approximately $16 billion in revenue in FY2024-25, according to Crisil Ratings, reported by Business Standard. That figure is under severe pressure: Crisil projects a 28-30% decline to approximately $12.5 billion in FY2025-26, driven by 50% U.S. tariffs on Indian exports, layered on top of a roughly 40% degrowth over the prior three fiscal years.

The Indian firms that built this dominance, Kiran Gems (the Sanghavi family), Venus Jewel, Rosy Blue (the Mehta family), KGK Group, scaled by processing small stones uneconomical to cut in high-wage countries. The Bharat Diamond Bourse in Mumbai, opened in 2010 with nine towers and 2,500+ offices, was built to challenge Antwerp.

The Rapaport Price List: The Jewish Information Layer That Survived

Martin Rapaport, born in Antwerp, educated in New York, created the Rapaport Diamond Report in 1978: the dominant wholesale pricing benchmark for polished diamonds. The list is not without competitors, the IDEX index and regional price services exist, but it remains the dominant benchmark globally. The Rapaport Group also operates RapNet, with approximately 8,000+ member companies.

Even as Indian firms took over cutting, the pricing infrastructure remains rooted in a system built by a Jewish trader from Antwerp. It is the most durable Jewish contribution to the industry's architecture, information, not stones.

Lab-Grown: The End of the Scarcity Premise

Lab-grown diamonds have fundamentally repriced the market. De Beers, when announcing the closure of its Lightbox lab-grown brand in May 2025, stated to Rapaport that lab-grown wholesale prices had fallen approximately 90% since 2018. Lab-grown diamonds now constitute a majority of center stones in U.S. engagement rings by several industry trackers' counts. In the broader jewelry market, a substantial share of all diamond jewelry sold features lab-grown stones, according to Edahn Golan Diamond Industry Research's tracking, cited in this Draco Diamond analysis of the De Beers writedowns.

De Beers's Lightbox experiment, launched at $800/carat in 2018, backfired. Prices fell below Lightbox's floor. Anglo American has written down roughly $6.8 billion in De Beers value across 2023-2025 and is seeking to sell or spin off the business. The Oppenheimer family, who sold their own De Beers stake back to Anglo American in 2012, exited a full decade before this write-down.

Follow the Money: The Four Diamond Cities in 2026

Antwerp: Total trade down sharply from prior-year levels per AWDC reporting, with company and employee counts far below the historic peak of 30,000+ workers.

Ramat Gan: Net exports collapsed to $2.5 billion in 2024, from $2.91 billion in 2023. IDE membership: roughly 3,100, but only 30 new members versus 200 at peak.

Surat/Mumbai: $16 billion revenue FY2024-25, projected 28-30% decline. 90%+ of world's diamonds by piece count.

47th Street: 2,600+ businesses, $24.6 billion pre-pandemic wholesale. Hasidic dealers share the block with Indian-American, Israeli, and Armenian traders.

What Survives

The Jewish diamond trade in 2026 is a specialized, high-end residual. What survives is large-stone brokerage, fancy-colored diamonds, high-end retail (Graff, Harry Winston), and the information infrastructure (Rapaport). The Hasidic trading networks still exist in Antwerp, Ramat Gan, 47th Street, and London's Hatton Garden, but they are a residual layer atop an industry structurally transformed by Indian economics, African sovereignty, lab-grown technology, and the transparency that technology brought to a trade that thrived on opacity.

The competitive moat, trust, information, access, was not broken by a competitor who built a better version. It was broken by a world that made each component less scarce.

The Jewish diamond trade didn't die. It was outscaled.

Frequently Asked Questions

What share of the diamond trade did Jewish traders control? At peak in the 1970s-1980s, Jewish traders controlled a dominant share of rough diamond sorting, cutting, and brokerage, a supermajority position in the pipeline's middle layers.

What is the Israel Diamond Exchange? The world's largest dedicated diamond trading complex in Ramat Gan, housing ~3,100 companies. Net exports fell to $2.5B in 2024 from $2.91B in 2023.

Why did India take over? The Jewish moat, trust, information, access, became less scarce. Indian firms won on scale and cost, processing 90%+ of diamonds by piece count.

What happened to De Beers? Closed Lightbox in 2025. Lab-grown wholesale fell ~90%. Anglo American wrote down roughly $6.8B. Seeking sale/spin-off.

What is the Rapaport Price List? The dominant wholesale benchmark since 1978, with RapNet hosting 8,000+ member companies.

What is 47th Street? Manhattan's Diamond District, 2,600+ businesses, $24.6B pre-pandemic wholesale, established by Jewish refugees from wartime Antwerp.

The Cluster: Israeli Diamond Economy

The Israel Diamond Exchange: How Ramat Gan Became the World's Largest Diamond Bourse Complex, the industrial history, the architecture, the Schnitzer era, and what the compound holds today.
Antwerp: The Diamond Capital and Its Jewish Diaspora of Capital, the Antwerp Jewish community, the capital migration, and the Antwerp-Tel Aviv-Dubai triangle.
Sarine, Tracr, and the Tech Pivot, how Israeli technology became the information layer of the global diamond trade.
Lev Leviev and the Rise and Fall of LLD Diamonds, the arc from Soviet Uzbekistan to De Beers rival to criminal investigation.
The Sutton Family and the Discreet Trade Dynasties, the quieter fortunes built through the trade and compounded across generations.
The Dubai Shift: Why the Diamond Trade Migrated to the DDE, why the rough trading floor moved east.
Lab-Grown Diamonds and the Collapse of the Israeli Cutting Industry, the demand-side shock that hit the cutting trade hardest.
The Oppenheimer Family: Diamonds, Gold, and $10.6B, the De Beers side of the story, from Ernest Oppenheimer to the 2012 exit.
Beny Steinmetz: The Diamond-and-Mining Operator Whose Career Ended in Court, an Antwerp-trading-family son who scaled into mining and ran into international law.
De Beers Returns to Israel Diamond Exchange After Nine Years, the October 2026 return of rough sales to Ramat Gan.
The Ramat Gan Economy: The Diamond Exchange and the Medical Corridor, the city around the bourse.